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History in a banana leaf

East meets West in this famous Sri Lankan fusion dish.

Lampries are a Sri Lankan symbol of hospitality, the ultimate party dish. Their history, much like their flavour, is rich and varied. Also written as ‘lamprais’, ‘lumprice’, ‘lampraise’ or ‘lumprais’, the now iconic Sri Lankan meal was introduced by the Dutch Burgher population (from 1658 until 1796, the coast of Sri Lanka was under Dutch rule) who came up with this delicacy by combing local and Dutch ingredients. The name is an Anglicised derivative of the Dutch word lomprijst, which, loosely translated, means a packet or ‘lump’ of rice.

The art of wrapping lampries in banana leaf

One of the first literary mentions of lampries was in Hilda Deutrom’s renowned Ceylon Daily News Cookery Book, first published in 1929. The recipe was most recently published in 2015, being OAM Charmaine Solomon’s contribution to The Great Australian Cook Book:

Charmaine Solomon, OAM, as quoted in The Great Australian Cook Book, 2015

It traditionally comprises a three-meat curry, typically including beef, pork and chicken – brinjal (aubergine), seeni sambol*, blachan, frikadeller (Dutch meatballs) and of course rice (fried with onion and spices in ghee and boiled in stock), all wrapped in banana leaves and baked. Modern versions can include a single meat curry, such as fish or chicken, or a vegetable curry. A hard boiled egg is also a common, but non-traditional, addition and remains a subject of hot debate – should an egg be included in lampries or not? (Have your say in the comments!)

Lampries are rich, fragrant and a symbol of cross-cultural cuisine – history in a banana leaf.

A fragrant meal, the ultimate Sri Lankan party dish!

Who are the Burghers?

The island known today as Sri Lanka was first invaded by the Portuguese in 1505. After 150 years of Portuguese domination, the Dutch moved in for another 150 year spell, after which the British took over around 1815. The result of this colonisation was a hotch-potch of English-speaking descendants with European surnames that was, for convenience, classified as ‘Burgher’ from the Dutch ‘town dweller’.

Burgher culture is described as hedonistic, with Burghers always ready to ‘put a party’ or ‘put a shot!’ As with most stereotypes, I can testify that there is an element of truth in that, with our tendency to enjoy the good life (not to mention good food) without any thought to the morrow!

However, Burghers have also excelled in their fields: literature (Carl Muller, Michael Ondaatje, Michelle de Kretser, Melanie La Brooy, Michelle Wright), law (Trilby Misso, Ronnie de Kretser), music (Keith Potger of the Seekers, Chris Ludowyk, Pippa Wilson, Rob Foenander), cooking (OAM Charmaine Solomon, Geoff Jansz), sports (cricketer Graeme La Brooy), academia/politics (Professor David de Kretser), modeling/acting (Jacqueline Fernandez, Jaimie Durie), and fashion (Barefoot founder Barbara Sansoni).

Not long after Ceylon (as it was called then) gained independence from colonial rule in 1948, the Official Language Act of 1956 was enacted, which meant that the medium of education and administration was changed to Sinhala. This prompted vast numbers of Burghers to emigrate to English-speaking countries. Nevertheless, ties to their homeland remained strong as they brought the flavours of the East to their new homes in the West. Certainly, lampries and love cake are the hallmarks of any family gathering, delicacies which you can now try at Curry & Chips.

They lost a home but never their identity.

Carl Muller, Yakada Yaka
Eat, drink and be merry! A party in Colombo, circa 1948

Love cake? You’ll love love cake!

Bolo d’Amor or Love Cake, as the name implies, is one of the legacies of the Portuguese and dates back to the 16th century, but has evolved into a confectionery unique to Sri Lanka. Growing up, this unassuming little square of cake was on the table at every family gathering and something I relished but at the same time took for granted.

The cake incorporates a mix of ingredients from Portuguese cakes, such as semolina together with local Sri Lankan spices, such as nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom, cashews and a dash of rose water.

Why it is called Love Cake remains a mystery. Some think it comes from the fact that the grinding of spices and nuts make this cake a true labor of love. I like to think it is because you take one bite and fall in love. Whatever the origin, this heavenly sweet combination of east and west is sure to delight!